The End Begins Again
by Jeff White
New leadership energizes Fog’s End and its flagship gin
PHOTO BY OTIS CONKLIN
Steven Wales eyes the horizon at The Beach House at Lovers Point while sipping The Metropolitan with 17 Mile Gin, cranberry and elderberry liqueur.
While Monterey Bay has yet to earn the reputation as a mecca for spirits, there are a few folks pushing the liquor envelope with creative concepts and, in turn, compelling cocktails. One among them is enjoying a bit of a resurrection and renaissance at the same time.
Fog’s End Distillery, the longest-running craft distillery in California, was originally founded by retired sheriff Craig Packish, who did his best to legitimize moonshine. For the most part, he succeeded, bringing his brand out of any misty misconceptions of the bootlegging scene in the Salinas Valley.
When the world turned sideways in 2020, it beckoned for a new chapter of Fog’s End and, on cue, in walked Steven Wales. While Wales has family in the spirits world—his cousin helped make High West a whiskey legend—the more meaningful driver for this career change was a long stint in East London pursuing a career in music. Along the way he picked up an affinity for the sauce scene across the pond. His specific passion therein: gin.
Fog’s End 2.0’s 17 Mile Gin channels his enthusiasm, tipping its hat to the scenic thoroughfare that traverses Pebble Beach. Not that Fog’s End stops there, with liquid homages to local landmarks like Carmel’s main street (Ocean Avenue Vodka) and Point Lobos (Whaler’s Cove Rum), while continuing the brand’s time-honored commitment to Monterey Rye Whiskey.
Each part of the portfolio reflects Wales’ perspective, which resonates as heady and humble. “We’re doing a lot of applied theory from what I learned in the U.K.,” he says, evoking the drink-building principles that prioritize balance, dilution, density and temperature. “But a spirit has gotta be good on its own.”
Wales picked up inspiration from London’s condensed bar scene: With a lot of people trying to innovate and differentiate in a small geographic area, he drew lessons applicable here on the Central Coast, namely the chance to showcase natural regional flavors—though he’ll remind you, “It’s good to be local, [and] it’s better to be good.” Fog’s End has been able to pull off both.
The spirits are ambitious in their use of ingredients—coriander from Monterey Bay Herb Co., Buddha’s hand from Pearson’s Ranch in Porterville—and more importantly, uplift the experience.
The sum of the botanicals works solo (on ice, chilled or straight). At the same time 17 Mile also elevates whatever cocktail you choose to tackle, whether a classic negroni or a gussied-up gimlet.
If I’m left with one notion that will bring me back to the reborn brand, it’s the nose and palate of Fog’s End limited release of the 17 Mile Gin Winter Expression. Leaning on birch bark, it brings a warmth built around notes of sassafras and a crisp finish that beckons another sip. While that offering may not last long, I’ll be looking forward to Fog’s End’s next release—as well as what the future holds with Wales and the Monterey Bay distillery scene.
Check out this recipe for The Beach House’s Metropolitan:
Metropolitan
Ingredients:
- 2 oz 17 Mile Gin
- 0.5 oz elderflower liquor
- 1 oz fresh lemon juice
- 1 oz fresh cranberry juice
- 1 dash simple syrup or liquid sugar (of your choice)
Methode:
- Add 2 oz Fog’s End Distillery’s 17 Mile Gin and 0.5 oz elderflower liquor to a shaker.
- Add 1 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice and 1 oz cranberry juice.
- Add a dash of simple syrup.
- Shake with ice until well chilled.
- Strain into a coupe or martini glass.
- Garnish with a lemon twist.
